Societe Mondiale Du Vin Takes South America by Storm

Chapter One of the Article by Jim Ray, Chevalier, San Antonio TX.

Chapter Two of this Article by Mirella Monoscalco, Vice Conseiller Gastronomique, Kauai/Oahu Bailliage.

On 11 January 2006, as the natives of Argentina, South America slept peacefully in their homes, they were unaware that an invasion of American forces were preparing to hit their shores during the next few days. These forces, from a total of 15 different states, including the territory of Puerto Rico, were under the command of the “Grand Echanson,” Societe Mondiale Du Vin – Daniel Gulbronsen.

The first wave, which was the “advance party”, arrived on 12 January and established their base of operation in the beautiful downtown Hilton. Dan gave the following instructions to his troops: “Attack in force all parts of the city. Learn the culture and history of this area, and take advantage of all good buys – especially leather buys. Visit the museums, mingle with the natives. Show “no mercy” to the local vendors, bargain, bargain, bargain, buy, buy, buy. In addition, eat the finest foods and drink the finest wines, and while you’re at it -- find out what this “Tango” stuff is all about.” Wow!! Since my wife Vivian, was born and raised in Buenos Aries, this assignment would be an easy task.

For the next three days the following accomplishments were completed:

Marcello’s Restaurant serves old style Argentina food and new style Argentina wine. Even though we had a fairly large group, each of us ordered a different dish from the most interesting menu items and passed it around. By doing it in that manner, each person had a chance to taste just about everything offered on the menu – which of course, was washed down with excellent Mendoza Valley wine.

Bettina’s Leather Shop: Off-the-shelf and custom made leather clothing of the finest quality can be found here at very reasonable prices. The “Rolling Stones” have been buying all their outfits from this store for many years. By the time the ladies from our group were finished with their leather purchases, the store had nothing left to sell.

Cabanas Las Lilas, Restaurant had beautiful décor, excellent food, and a very proficient staff. Our guest speaker was Jeff Mausbach, Wine Education Director and Asian Export Manager, for the Catena Zapata Winery, Mendoza – a winery that we were scheduled to visit in the next few days. Jeff gave us a first-rate presentation to go with a first-rate meal.

Tigre and Parana’s Delta: The Delta is made up of more than 5,000 waterways within an area of 21,000 kilometers. Time was limited so the group only explored the three main waterways. The islands are inhabited by approximately 3,000 residents who get their daily supplies from floating supply stores. Electricity and modern plumbing are limited in these areas. It was like looking at a different culture. We had our “alligator lookout” positioned on the front of the boat with harpoon at hand; however, the alligators kept their distance.

Tomo 1 Restaurant: With superb cuisine and outstanding service, this is one of the top restaurants in town. Dan built our side dishes and wine selections for this meal to compliment the main course of “entremes de gravlax de salmon – an excellent yet none filling meal. We kept dinner light because we had more work to do before the night was over.

The Tango Thing: We headed downtown to the best Tango Show in Buenos Aires. This spectacular show was held in the stunning Piazzolla Theater, an Art Nouveau masterpiece. Of all of the tango show palaces in Buenos Aires, this is the most beautiful. Our front row seats allowed us to not miss a thing. The only two words to describe what we had witnessed once we left the theater were “awesome” and “unbelievable!”

January 15-18: We left Buenos Aries, a city of almost 14 million inhabitants, and headed for a more rustic province in northern Argentina – the Mendoza Valley. Blessed by rich sunlight and a panorama of snow-filled mountains, Mendoza dominates Argentina’s wine-making industry and is one of the most successful wine regions of Earth. This providence accounts for over 70% of the nation’s wine production and is the world’s sixth-largest producer of grapes. After an hour and half flight the plane landed, and we headed for our operations center – the Park Hyatt Mendoza.

The Facundo Restaurant, with the title of “The Best Parrilla in Mendoza:” The menu consisted of barbecue ribs, beef, blood sausage, chit lens, sweet breads, kidneys, and a few other unknown beef organs?? If anyone had trouble swallowing any of the food, they just took an extra swig of Mendoza Malbec and everything went down just fine.

For the next two days, we accomplished an impressive and challenging assignment: “Take on six of the most well known wineries in this area, taste the wines, and grasp a full understanding of what the “wines of Mendoza” are all about.”

“Catena Zapata” vineyard and winery was first, where we met Jeff again, then the “Carlos Pulenta” vineyard and winery. Carlos and his staff went out of their way to put together an old fashion grand Argentina picnic lunch consisting of his best wines and his best goats. Afterwards, the group visited the “Trivento” vineyard and winery, and the “Trapiche” winery.” The Trivento Winery is one of the oldest wineries in the area but had some of the newest technology. Its output is over 10 million bottles a year. At the Trapiche Winery, we had a late dinner and a very comprehensive presentation and tour of the winery.

The next day we went further inland and closer to the huge Alps – to the Uco Valley wine region. There we visited the “Salentein” vineyard and winery and the “Clos de los Siete vineyard and winery. The Clos de los Siete Winery is a very private complex owned by seven French “Chateaux” winemakers of Bordeaux, including the Rothchild and Dassault families. The vineyards consist of over 2,000 acres. Here we had a most impressive lunch of the finest beef with all of the $50 Malbec we desired.

On the evening of the last day, we all feasted at one of Mendoza’s top restaurants, “1884.” The restaurant is located inside the Ecorihuela Winery, a winery that was built in 1884. The meal consisted of seven-hour lamb, and top notch wine. While there, we enjoyed a live Argentina performance of music and folklore dancing.

On 18 January, we left Mendoza and met the rest of our group from the U.S. at the Oceania ship dock in Buenos Aires. Once everyone was accounted for, Dan had under his control a total of 97 of the finest wine and food lovers ever assembled on foreign soil. We had to have a nick name – something like the “Dirty Dozen” so we became the “Dirty 8 Dozen + 1.” What a name! It will go down in history.

January 19-31: It now was time to begin Phase II of the trip. We went straight out of Buenos Aires late that evening and by the next morning we were in Montevideo Uruguay, first on our long list of challenges. Uruguay’s ethnic make-up is 93% European, has a population less than that of Houston Texas, and its total size is smaller than the state of Oklahoma. We had just enough time to go ashore, get briefed on the city’s highlights, its history, visit the Juanico Winery, visit some of the surrounding countryside that’s noted for its scenic beauty, eat a little lunch, drink a little wine, and “boom,” we’re out-a-there.

The Penguins of Puerto Madryn, Punta Tombo: 800,000 Magellanic penguins migrate to this beach each summer. We had the opportunity the night before to watch the documentary “March of Penguins” and now wanted to see these beautiful little creatures up close. No one was disappointed, there must have been as many pictures taken as there were penguins. These little creatures were so tame, they slept in the middle of the walkway, and we had to step over them – they never batted an eye. They would come up and peck at our shoes or just stand there and look at us with a silly expression on their face.

Port Stanley in the Falkland Islands – a small group of islands that Argentina and England fought over. Here, King Penguins intermingle in with the Magellanic penguins. The islands have not developed much since then but a nice place to visit and review history.

Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world. Yes, this spot is well known for being the “End of the World.” One may get an eerie feeling when entering or departing this area because of the extremely tall mountain ranges on both sides of the narrow channel. In between these mountain peaks in several areas are gigantic ice glaciers that continuously expand and overflow from the high plateau, pushing and crushing everything in their path as they move toward the waterway. However, once in Ushuaia, one quickly forgets about that and attentions are turned more interesting things – such as the “Train ride to the very end of the world.” This is where all land stops, along with any other type of ground transportation. There will only be water or ice from here to the Antarctic.

Punta Arenas Chile: Everyone had the opportunity to take a tour of the city and learn about the culture and history of this area. Since we were going to be here for two days most of us just took our time, enjoyed the shopping, ate at the local restaurants, and enjoyed the environment. The cold-water King Crab is an excellent menu item here.

At sea cruising the Chilean Fjords and the Seno Eyre Fjord while en-route to Puerto Montt Chile: This was truly the back waters of Chile – extremely tall and steep mountain ranges, very narrow waterways, glaciers of overwhelming proportions, medium size icebergs, and floating ice galore.

Puerto Montt, with a population of around 110,000, is the gateway to the region graced with some of the world’s most inspiring scenery. Virgin forests, picturesque towns, snow-mantled mountains and translucent lakes adorn this peaceful setting. Here we have the towering volcano of Mount Osorno, the tranquil lake Lianquihue, the rushing rapids of Petrohue, and the serenity of Lake Todos los Santos.

Back Cruising at Sea and heading for Valparaiso. This will be our last stop before getting off of the ship and heading for Santiago and the wine fields. What does a food and wine lover do at sea? In addition to the numerous activities planned by the ship, Dan insisted that we continue our training while aboard i.e. in-depth blind wine tasting, scotch tasting, and whiskey/bourbon tasting. These classes were given by Jay James, Master Sommelier. Jay was on the Regatta with us last year when we cruised out of Los Angeles, down the west coast of Mexico; then Guatemala; Costa Rica; through the Panama Canal; the Island of San Andres, Columbia; then back up the west coast of Central America and Mexico before docking in Miami. But that’s a different story.

Note: Chapter two of this story will be written by Mirella Monoscaico, Vice Conseiller Gastronomique, Kauai/Oahu Bailliage. She and 36 other Societe Mondiale members have gone on to the Chilean vineyards to explore that wonderful world of wine.

Chapter two by Mirella Monoscalco, Vice Conseiller Gastronomique, Kauai/Oahu Bailliage:

On February 2, 2006 thirty-seven Mondiale members disembark the M/S Insignia after saying good-bye to the members that we’ve been cruising with for the past sixteen days. We are all ready to start phase three of the trip planned by Grand Echanson, Societe Mondiale Du Vin -Dan Gulbronsen and explore the wine fields of Chile. It is undoubtedly the main fruit-producing country of the southern hemisphere and its leadership is due in part to its very special geography. The richness of its soil, its temperate climate, the Andes Mountains, the Atacama desert and the Pacific Ocean all are determining factors in creating a wide variety of wines which are a delight.

After visiting picturesque port city of Valparaiso we head on to Casablanca Valley where some of the best Sauvignon Blanc is produced. Our first stop was “Vina Mar Winery” where we had a delicious lunch paired with their best wines. Ristorante San Marco at the winery prepared a cold starter described as “selection of sea with crazy people, shrimp, scallops, and razor clams, served with green salad and capers”. Needless to say, we all had a good laugh about the translation! The Sauvignon Blanc Reserva 2004 was perfect with the seafood and the “crazy” people all agreed! The delicious local salmon was paired with a Chardonnay Riserva 2004. The white and bitter chocolate mousse was garnished with berries marinated in Cabernet Sauvignon.

We continue to Matetic Vineyards proud producers of one of Chile’s most interesting Syrahs (The EQ). It’s a state-of-the-art winemaking facility. The cool climate also allows the winery to produce pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc and some of the best organic wines.

That evening a delicious dinner was paired with Vina Morande wines from the Casablanca Valley. The local seafood ceviche was paired with a delicious Sauvignon Blanc 2005, Terrarum. Soils are sandy clay, with low fertility and this together with the cool climate of the valley makes possible to produce grapes of high aromatic expression and great freshness. The carpaccio of scallops was paired with a Chardonnay2003, Vitisterra with aroma of tropical fruits. A limited edition Malbec 2002 was served with lamb chops. The meal ended with a Golden Harvest 2000 paired with a delicious roquefort cheesecake.

The next day we explored the Maipo Valley home of some of the oldest vineyards in South America. We visit Vina Perez Cruz winery for excellent red wine production. We tasted a delicious Cabernet Sauvignon with aromas of ripe red berries and spices highlighted with dried fruit and vanilla. Next we tried a Carmenere riserva limited edition. The grapes, which ripen very slowly, are aged for twelve months in French Oak barrels. It’s aromas of ripe fruit, licorice, and mocha gives it a special character.

We continued to Concha Y Toro one of the oldest wineries in Chile. Don Melchor, Cabernet Sauvignon, the wineries top wine is one of the first premium wines made in the country, it’s a masculine, smoky, wine with lots of old world soft, earthly flavors . Our last visit of the day is Vinas Haras de Pirque winery which reflects a blend of two passions; the raising of thoroughbreds and the production of fine wines. Their red wines are well structured and highly complex, blanketed with accents of red black fruits, berries and cassis. We enjoyed a delicious Chilean steak dinner in the cellar which was paired with a Haras Character, Cabernet Sauvignon 2000.

The last day in Chile we all went sightseeing and enjoyed the beautiful European architecture. We gathered at Cousino-Macul winery for our farewell dinner after a beautiful walk through their private gardens. Grapes have been cultivated in the area of Macul since 1564 and the Cousino’s sixth generation of family continues to write the history of the nation’s proud winemaking traditions. Dinner began with a salmon trilogy of smoked, marinated and golden browned in sesame and was paired with Antiguas Reservas, Chardonnay 2005. Pork and beef medallions with roquefort sauce were paired with Finis Terrae 2003. The delicious dessert of eggfruit cake was paired with a Riesling Late Harvest 2005. Delicious South America chocolate truffles topped off a delightful evening.

We all agreed to enjoy more wine from Chile when we returned home and we toasted to a wonderful Mondiale trip. Thanks, to Dan Gulbronsen for the great memories and looking forward to exploring more of the world of wine together.